š¶Ā Please note: This article assumes that you have already read both parts 1 & 2 of this mini series, 'Preparing Your Home & Garden for a New Dog & a Homecheck.' š¶ Our aim is to help you prepare for your new Romanian, overseas or U.K. rescue dog & for a homecheck.
In parts 1 & 2 of this mini series, we focussed upon homechecks & what observations, risk assessments & recommendations a homechecker might potentially make, specifically with regards to your home & garden/s.Ā
This time, here in part 3, we will put all of this in context by looking at some case studies. We hope that these case studies will help you to make sense of the importance of being new dog ready & also help you to see how important the recommendations of a homechecker can be.
All of the dogs mentioned here have had their names changed to preserve their anonymity.
š¶Ā Case study 1, 'Rosie', being spooked/escaping & out of character incidents...Ā š¶
Rosie is a 9 year old, small, crossbreed, spayed female who has lived with her owners since she was a puppy, as an only dog. She has lived in the same house since she was adopted.Ā
The property has shared access with another neighbour across the back garden & the garden gate is shared.
Last year, the neighbour was out cleaning their car & left the shared access gate open in the back garden. Rosie is usually unbothered on the rare occasions that this happens & stays within the garden area.Ā
However, on this occasion Rosie seemed to become spooked by something unknown & ran through the open garden gate & out into the road. She did not return & for months afterwards people looked for her on her regular walking routes & within the local area. She was never found.
Rosie's case is, sadly, quite a regular occurrence in other similar contexts, too. For example: we've heard of off-lead dogs suddenly getting spooked & running away & dogs getting spooked by fireworks & escaping from their gardens.
In Rosie's case, it appeared to be quite out of character & a freak event, which is so very sad.Ā šš
However, we can learn from this unfortunate incident.Ā
We discussed shared access in great length in part 1. If you have shared access across your garden, think about how you can mitigate any escape risk. For instance: can you create a secure fenced off area inside your garden (a garden inside a garden) where your dog can go & roam securely. We would suggest you pop your dog on a lead between your home & the secure area for extra security. So, if the gate is open, it won't impact your dog's safety or security.Ā
You could also consider setting up a texting or timetable system with your neighbour/s & agree to keep the gate locked when not in use. Or, you could create a vestibule area & create a two gate system to pass through. For further discussion, please refer back to part 1.
Similarly, with regards to off-lead dogs getting spooked on walks, we would always recommend that only dogs with strong recall are allowed off-lead. However, we would always recommend that off-leading be reserved for secure, fully enclosed, running areas. For extra security on walks, we would recommend the use of a long-line lead which may provide a safer alternative to off-leading on walks. These measures may also lessen the possibility of dog bite incidents on walks.
Whilst we talk about leads, please consider a double lead system for walks, where one lead is attached to a good quality body harness & the other is attached to the collar. This will allow for an enhanced level of security, particularly if you select well fitting harnesses & collars. Sadly, we have heard many stories about dogs getting so spooked on a walk that they have managed to escape from their harness or collar. Having a two lead system & ensuring good fit might mitigate this escape risk & will also help you to better manage your dog whilst out & about, should any incidents arise.
Here is a good link about harnesses:
You should also ensure that your dog has a working & up-to-date I.D chip for scanning, as well as an i.d tag on their collar or harness.
Furthermore, whilst we talk about walks, please ensure you listen to the advice given by the rescue. If they advise you not to walk your new dog for a set period of time, please follow this advice, it's there for good reason! Remember the 3, 3, 3 rule (3 days, 3 weeks, 3 months rule) which can turn into the 4, 4, 4 rule, the 5, 5, 5 rule & so forth - it very much depends upon the individual dog, all in THEIR own time! This rule represents the amount of time that a new dog will need to decompress, unpack, acclimatise & settle in. You should always go at THEIR pace. You might find that some dogs aren't ready for a walk even after the time the rescue asks you to allow. A lot depends on the dog's background & previous training, etc. Be observant & be guided by your dog & THEIR needs!
We digressed slightly here but I think we needed to cover this. So, back on track now...
Another very common case that we hear of all too often is around fireworks. We would always recommend that dogs are walked during daylight hours during fireworks season, preferably on a lead, as fireworks can also be set off during the day, too. Always try to find out what local displays are on & between which times, if you can. Make sure your dog gets some garden time before the fireworks are due to start.Ā
Please Do NOT let your dog out whilst the fireworks are going off, even if they seem unbothered. If you do, you risk your dog jumping the fence out of fear, in an attempt to escape all the noise & bright flashes.Ā
If your dog is particularly fearful of fireworks, consider the use of a thunder shirt &/or calming remedies. Loud & continuous music can also be useful, with all windows, doors & curtains closed (you might like to let any adjoining neighbours know beforehand as a courtesy.)Ā šĀ YouTube has a number of special programmes of music dedicated to dogs & you can even consider desensitising your dog to such noises in advance of such events. Your dog might also appreciate a 'snug' to hide in on such nights, such as a covered open crate. Please give your dog a cuddle & lots of reassurance if they seek it from you. They are just scared, bless them, & are seeking reassuranceĀ šĀ just like a human child!
In the case of fireworks, you can be forward thinking, pre-emptive & mitigate risk as best as you can. Planning & preparation are key.
So, we digressed slightly there, but going back to Rosie's case now, her case just highlights that even the most settled, trusted, & established family dog can have a moment of unpredictability - just like a dog might do on a walk or during fireworks. It could literally happen to ANY dog at ANY time!Ā
Our advice is to be prepared for these unpredictable moments through the use of effective mitigation measures & never think it won't happen to you because Oscar never leaves your side whilst off-lead on a walk. Rosie's case sadly illustrates that out of character incidents can happen!Ā š
š¶Ā Case study 2: 'Star', the opportunity to escape...Ā š¶
Sticking to a similar theme now...
Star is a 3 year old, small, crossbreed, neutered male & overseas rescue dog. It is unknown whether he has lived inside a house before but was likely an ex-stray.
He joined the family just two weeks before this incident occurred.
The front door to the home opens directly into the main family/lounge room. The front of the house has a small unsecured garden.
Members of the family had started a trend of holding Star every time somebody left the house or came in. However, one day Star managed to get away from being held & he escaped out of the open front door.
Numerous family members chased him along the road & luckily he was caught & taken home. Thankfully, he suffered no injuries. But on a road with vehicles, the ending to this story could have been so very different & tragic.
We discussed the idea of popping your dog in another room behind a securely closing & latching door or behind a lockable dog/child gate (tall enough to secure the size of your dog) in part 2. As we discussed there, a dog should always be secured this way before anybody leaves or arrives through an accessible outside facing door. Again, a texting or timetable system could be put in place, so notice is effectively given before anyone even has a chance to open the door. This also applies to the arrival of visitors, post people & couriers, etc. Always pop your dog in another room behind a securely closing/latching door or behind a lockable child gate BEFORE you open your front door. This will also mitigate the risk of your dog potentially biting a visitor.
Star was, at this time, a new dog to the home with an unknown past. Remember the 3, 3, 3 rule (3 days, 3 weeks, 3 months rule) that we previously discussed. Your new dog might take up to three months, all in stages, to decompress, unpack, acclimatise & settle into your family, homelife & routines - all in THEIR own time & at THEIR own pace. The 3, 3, 3 rule could indeed become the 4, 4, 4 rule, the 5, 5, 5 rule, etc. it depends on the individual dog.Ā
During the early stages, your dog might be fearful, anxious, excitable & unsure, etc., even if they don't seem to be. They are after all living with strangers in a strange new environment & they haven't been given any choice. Of course, they need some time to get to know you, their new environment, your routines & to settle in.Ā
The early stages are a good time to put in place new routines & management tools which will provide some structure for your new dog, as well as keeping them safe.
š¶Ā Case study 3: 'Star' & 'Neddy', the opportunity to steal human food...Ā š¶
Star is a 3 year old, small, crossbreed, neutered male & overseas rescue dog. It is unknown whether he has lived inside a house before but was likely an ex-stray. Similarly, Neddy is a 5 year old, medium, crossbreed, neutered male, overseas rescue dog, also most likely an ex-stray.
Our cheeky chappie Star, who we have already met, was able to access & eat a whole pack of open biscuits on a coffee table. Luckily, they contained no chocolate or raisins or else a vet's visit might have been needed.
It is best to never leave any food unattended or simply pop it away. Remember, an ex-stray dog would have had to look for their food & steal anything they could find. Old habits die hard! On the other hand, I think most dogs would be tempted, so best not leave any temptation.Ā šĀ This also goes for food on your kitchen sideboards & dinner table. You might be surprised how resourceful your new dog can be in pursuit of a tasty human treat.Ā
In Neddy's case, he was able to access the kitchen's tall, swing top lidded bin whilst the family were out. The bin was placed in a corner on the floor.
Very sadly for Neddy, he ate some old, mouldy bread & ended up being very poorly with mycotoxin poisoning. Luckily, he was quickly rushed to the vets & made a full recovery.
This example illustrates why it is necessary to consider both bin placement & the sort of lid your bin has. The more secure & least accessible the bin lid is, the better. Even better than this, if your bin can be secured behind a securely closing/latching/locking door or behind a lockable dog/child gate, this will make the bin even less accessible.
Think from a dog's point of view & put in place measures & management techniques to mitigate such risks. For instance: don't leave your dog in the kitchen with your freshly prepared Sunday lunch. Take your dog with you or pop them behind a door or dog/child gate - making sure it is firmly closed &/or locked.
Also, have an awareness of what human foods a dog cannot eat. We already touched upon chocolate & raisins above...
Here are a few good articles on this topic:
Whilst we're on this subject, some plants can make your dog very poorly, or worse, if consumed.
Here are a few useful articles on this subject:
Whilst we have slightly digressed, it is best to be aware of what your dog can & can't eat safely.
š¶Ā Case study 4: 'Neddy', the ability to open doors & gates...Ā š¶
Neddy is a 5 year old, medium, crossbreed, neutered male, overseas rescue dog, most likely an ex-stray.
Cheeky chappie Neddy, who we have already met, was able to jump up & push down on door handles to open doors. He managed this with ease & managed to get into rooms which he wasn't allowed to be in & he even managed to escape out of the front door. Luckily, he was quickly caught & no harm was done.
There's a few mitigation measures that could help here. Firstly, ensure that all doors securely latch & close when shut. Then you could try turning the door handles upside down, so the handles need to be pushed upwards to open, or replacing your handles with twistable door knobs instead.
In addition, always ensure that the outward facing doors in your home are kept key locked (& the key removed) so that the door has no chance of being opened by your dog.
Our late & great Lily was in fact able to push doors open with ease. So, ensuring doors close & latch properly is very important.
Our Rodney (aka Hot RodĀ š„) can open our very stiffly closing garden gate with ease. It honestly needs a lot of force to open it.Ā š Ā Luckily, it is only a separating gate in our garden. We simply installed a bolt & that stops him in his tracks.
Both Lily & Rodney were & are ex-strays from Romania, rescued from public shelters. These dogs have literally had to adapt to survive & have learnt such valuable life skills along the way. Pretty amazing really but also a potential risk for their safety & security in the home.
š¶Ā Case study 5: 'Dolly', chewing things she shouldn't...Ā š¶
Dolly is a 1 year old, small, crossbreed, neutered female, overseas rescue dog. She was born & bred on the streets so had never lived inside a home before.
Dolly chewed through a number of wires in the home within the first six months, but luckily the power was switched off.Ā
It's important to realise that a new dog, particularly an ex-stray &/or puppy, do not realise what they can & can't do & indeed what's safe & what isn't. Chewing & licking can have a soothing effect & dogs use their mouths like hands to explore.
Have a think about potential hazards around your home & how you might mitigate risk. In terms of accessible wires, can the power be left switched off when not in use/when not supervised? Better still, can the item be unplugged completely & a dummy plug added to cover the open plug socket instead? You could also invest in some chew proof wire covering for extra security.
Similarly, if you intend to leave your dog in a room whilst you're out, have a good look around the room for any potential hazards & decide how you can mitigate any risk by making the room safer & more dog friendly.
š¶Ā Case study 6: 'Kerris', breaking into a neighbouring garden...Ā š¶
Kerris is a 2 year old Staffordshire Bull Terrier. She is unneutered & has lived in the same home since she was a puppy, as the only dog.
Kerris's case is a curious one. For many months, she seemed to get very cross when neighbouring dogs were out in their garden & she would chew the dividing wooden fencing in quite an aggressive & relentless way. As a result, the fencing was regularly patched up & sections had to be replaced.
The owners said she was not dog friendly.
One day she managed to break into the neighbouring garden & all she actually wanted to do was walk around with the neighbouring dogs & have a good sniff. It turned out that she actually wanted some canine company & there was maybe an element of boredom involved there, too.
However, sometimes these instances actually go the other way. A dog might be breaking in or might jump the fence to cause harm to your dog.
If you have neighbouring dogs, have a chat with your neighbours & find out if their dog/s are dog friendly & how they interact with other dogs. This will give you an idea of whether their potential 'interest' on the other side of the fence is anything to worry about.
This case study also highlights the need to ensure that all boundaries are safe & secure. Plus, the need to conduct regular maintenance checks & fix when needed.
Whilst we're on this subject, in the case of extreme weather like high winds, always re-check the security of your garden boundaries BEFORE you let your dogs out. Again, this will help to minimalise any potential escape risk caused by damaged fences, etc.
If your dog unfortunately does manage to escape (hopefully without consequenceĀ š) use the experience as a learning tool to improve your mitigation & management measures & the security around your home & garden. Recognise how they managed to escape & think about how such an escape can be prevented in the future. Also, consider what you could have done better or differently in the situation. To fully & successfully prevent a recurrence, you will also need to be open to trying to understand why your dog wanted to escape in the first place & address their motivation for doing so. Some of the most common reasons why a dog might choose to escape include: boredom, social isolation, separation anxiety, reproductive drive & fear. We have already touched upon a few of these motivators above in our case studies.
We hope this article has drawn together all that we discussed in parts 1 & 2 of this mini series, 'Preparing Your Home & Garden for Your New Dog & a Homecheck'. As hard as it is to accept, rescues do set their own individual requirements for a reason - most likely based on experience & issues that they have encountered in the past & based on the sorts of dogs they rehome. For example: rescues specialising in rehoming ex-stray dogs might base their requirements on the individual dog (owing to such aspects as age, health, energy levels, breed temperament, if known & the dog's actual displayed temperament, etc.) Other rescues might use a blanket set of guidelines in their assessment process. In contrast, some rescues might consider your individual circumstances uniquely & create good doggie matches from there.
If you do get turned down for a dog, do ask for feedback, that way you can look at making improvements to your home & garden & you can also reflect on whether you're in the best place to rehome a dog at this time. Also remember that, just because one rescue has turned you down, it doesn't mean they all will. But regardless, we'd always suggest you consider the recommendations of the original rescue who turned you down.
š£Ā I would urge you to err on the side of caution when considering adopting a dog from abroad, just because they might seem easier to adopt compared to dogs in UK rescue, it doesn't mean that they will be an easier option. As an owner of Romanian & Thai ex-stray rescue dogs myself, I can tell you that these dogs are often not an easier option when they arrive. These dogs often require a bit more patience, understanding, empathy, reassurance, commitment, dedication & training when compared to their UK rescue counterparts. When you consider their possible back stories, it's completely understandable. Please refer to our blog articles titled, "ROMANIAN / OVERSEAS RESCUE DOGS", for more information & further discussion.Ā š£
At the end of the day, all rescues want to do is find good, loving, forever homes for their dogs where they will be taken good care of & be safe & secure for the rest of their days. Mitigating the potential risk of 'return', or worse, also falls under this remit.
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š£Ā Please remember to always choose no harm, fear free, force free & non-aversive training methods based on mutual respect, trust & positive reinforcement. Please always consider that a behaviour that YOU might find undesirable might be quite normal behaviour to your dog, the behaviour might be motivated by a past trauma/fear, or it might be motivated by your dog's emotional response to something. Always treat your dog with love, patience, empathy, understanding & kindness - even if they do have toileting accidents or if they chew your favourite slippers.Ā š£š
šĀ The dog behaviour & training world is largely unregulated here in the U.K. & not all are equal. Please do your homework & always choose a behaviourist or trainer carefully. Look at the methods of training they use & the stance they choose to adopt. Always check their qualifications, accreditations & references/feedback carefully.Ā š
š© URGENT SPECIAL APPEAL š©
š Penny š & š§” Rusty š§” based in Goole, East Yorkshire, U.K. š
This is a very special appeal for two lovely rescue dogs, originally from Romania, who have been homeless in the UK š¬š§ for FIVE long years!
They are both around 6 years old & are on the larger side of medium.
They were previously living in a kennel environment but over the last several months they have been living in a home boarding placement.
They are both doing so well living in a home environment & they are now more than ready to find homes of their own, separately, in the UK. š¬š§
Unfortunately, given the amount of time that they have been homeless & the cost of living crisis, these two are in real danger of being returned to the Sadies Dog Rescue shelter in Romania, due to funding issues & a lack of interest. This would be a real shame given all the time & work that has been put into their rehabilitation & preparation for living in a home environment.
Can anyone help? š
We will be posting more about them in the next few blogs, so please watch this space & share them for urgent UK š¬š§ homes.
Please enquire here:
Thank you! š„°
š„³ PLEASE NOTE: Penny has now been adopted! š„³
However, Rusty (pictured) is still in need of a U.K. home! š
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